Skin care: ingredients explained simply

Most of us use skin creams or a serum every day. But which ingredients affect the skin and how? We have summarized and explained the most important components of skin care products:

The most important ingredients for clear skin

• Azelaic acid: calms the barrier + slow/well aging + brightening and correcting
• Centella extract: promotes wound healing
• Glycerin: nourishes and moisturizes and soothes the barrier
• Glycolic acid (AHA): slow/well aging + brightening and correcting
• Salicylic acid (BHA): slow/well aging + brightening and correcting
• Panthenol (provitamin B5): nourishes and moisturizes and soothes the barrier

The benefits of azelaic acid for skin:

Azelaic acid is an organic acid obtained from wheat, rye and barley. It is commonly used in skin care, particularly to treat acne and rosacea. Here are some of the key effects of azelaic acid on the skin:

• Anti-inflammatory properties: Azelaic acid can help reduce redness and inflammation on the skin, especially in inflammatory skin conditions like acne.
• Anti-bacterial effect: Azelaic acid has an antibacterial effect, especially against the bacterial species Propionibacterium acnes, which is responsible for the development of acne. By reducing the bacterial population, it can help control acne breakouts.
• Inhibition of sebum production: Azelaic acid can regulate sebum production in the sebaceous glands. Excessive sebum flow is often associated with acne, and controlling sebum production can help reduce blackhead formation.

• Skin lightening effect: Azelaic acid can also help to reduce hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tones. By inhibiting melanin production, dark spots and discolouration can fade.

• Improving skin texture: Using azelaic acid can help to improve the overall texture and structure of the skin. It can refine pores and reduce the appearance of blemishes.

• Antioxidant effect: Azelaic acid acts as an antioxidant that can fight free radicals. Free radicals are molecules that can cause oxidative stress in the skin, which contributes to premature skin ageing.

It is important to note that the effect of azelaic acid can vary from person to person, and results may vary depending on skin type and specific skin condition.

Benefits of Centella extract for the skin:

Centella asiatica, also known as tiger grass or gotu kola, is a plant whose extract is often used in skin care. Centella extract has various effects on the skin that make it a popular ingredient. Here are some of the main effects:

• Calming effect: Centella extract has strong calming properties. It can help soothe redness and irritation, making it particularly useful for sensitive skin or skin with inflammation.
• Anti-inflammatory properties: Centella asiatica can help reduce inflammation in the skin. This is especially important when treating skin problems such as acne or rosacea.
• Promotes wound healing: The plant is traditionally valued for its healing properties. The extract can promote wound healing by stimulating collagen production and supporting skin cell regeneration.
• Anti-aging effects: Centella extract can help improve skin elasticity and reduce signs of aging. It does this by promoting collagen production, which can lead to firmer, more youthful-looking skin.
• Moisturizing: The extract also has moisturizing properties. It can help moisturize the skin while forming a protective film that prevents water loss.
• Antioxidant effect: Centella asiatica is rich in antioxidants that can help fight free radicals. Free radicals are molecules that can contribute to premature skin aging.
• Reduction of scarring: Due to its beneficial effect on collagen production, Centella extract can help reduce the formation of scars and improve the appearance of existing scars.

Centella extract is often used in serums, creams, masks and other skin care products. It is particularly popular in products for sensitive skin, dry skin, mature skin or skin with acne. As with any skincare product, it is important to test individual skin tolerance and consult a skincare expert if in doubt.

Benefits of glycerine for the skin:

Glycerin is a commonly used ingredient in skincare products, and it has several beneficial effects on the skin. Here are some of the main benefits of glycerin for the skin:

• Moisturising: Glycerin is an excellent moisturiser. It attracts water from the air and helps to draw it into the skin, moisturising the skin. This is particularly beneficial for dry or dehydrated skin.
• Barrier function: Glycerin can help to strengthen the skin barrier. By locking moisture into the skin, it helps to protect the skin from external influences such as wind, cold and pollution.
• Soothing effect: Glycerin can also have a soothing effect on the skin. It helps to soothe irritation and reduce redness, which is particularly beneficial for sensitive skin.
• Anti-ageing effects: By providing intense hydration, glycerin can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Well-hydrated skin often looks plumper and more youthful.
• Help with skin problems: Glycerin can also help alleviate various skin problems, including dry skin, eczema and psoriasis. It alleviates symptoms by moisturising the skin and improving its barrier function.

• Does not clog pores: Glycerin is non-comedogenic, which means that it does not clog pores. This makes it a suitable option for people with oily or acne-prone skin.

• Improves penetration of other active ingredients: Glycerin can also improve the penetration of other active ingredients, making it an effective ingredient in skincare products. It helps other ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin.

It is important to note that glycerin does not work the same for all skin types. Some people may have a sensitive reaction to it. It is therefore advisable to test new products containing glycerin on a small area of skin first to ensure that no irritation occurs.

Benefits of glycolic acid (AHA) for the skin:

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) found in many skincare products, especially exfoliants. Here are some of the main effects of glycolic acid on the skin:

• Exfoliation: glycolic acid is an exfoliating agent. It helps to remove dead skin cells from the surface, improving skin texture. This process promotes skin renewal and gives the skin a fresher appearance.
• Improving skin texture: Through exfoliation, glycolic acid can help to improve skin texture. Fine lines, wrinkles and imperfections can be reduced, resulting in smoother skin.
• Skin brightening: Glycolic acid can help reduce hyperpigmentation. It inhibits the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for colouring the skin, and can therefore help to fade dark spots, sun spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation.
• Promoting collagen production: The use of glycolic acid can stimulate collagen production. Collagen is a protein that is responsible for skin firmness and elasticity. Increased collagen production can lead to firmer and more youthful looking skin.
• Refining pores: By removing dead skin cells and promoting cell renewal, glycolic acid can also help to refine pores and reduce the appearance of blackheads.
• Treating acne: Glycolic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help treat acne. By removing dead skin cells, clogged pores are avoided and the anti-inflammatory effect can reduce redness and swelling.

It is important to note that glycolic acid can work differently depending on the concentration and skin type. Some people may be sensitive to it, especially at higher concentrations. It is recommended to use products with glycolic acid in lower concentrations at first and gradually acclimatise the skin to it. People with sensitive skin should consult a skincare professional before using glycolic acid products.

Benefits of salicylic acid (BHA) for the skin:

Salicylic acid, also known as beta hydroxy acid (BHA), is a widely used ingredient in skincare products due to its many beneficial effects on the skin. Here are some of the main effects of salicylic acid:

• Exfoliation: salicylic acid has exfoliating properties that help remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface. This promotes skin renewal and can lead to a more radiant complexion.
• Acne treatment: Salicylic acid is particularly effective in the treatment of acne. It penetrates deep into the pores and helps to remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This prevents blockages and reduces the appearance of blackheads and pimples.
• Anti-inflammatory effect: Salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce redness and swelling. This is particularly useful for inflammatory skin conditions such as acne.
• Improving skin texture: By exfoliating and cleansing the pore, salicylic acid can help to improve skin texture. This can reduce fine lines, wrinkles and imperfections.
• Skin lightening: Salicylic acid can help to reduce hyperpigmentation by regulating the production of melanin. Dark spots, sun spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation can be reduced.
• Refining pores: By cleansing pores and controlling sebum production, salicylic acid can help refine pores. This makes it a popular ingredient in products for people with large pores.

It is important to note that salicylic acid can cause skin irritation in some people, especially those with sensitive skin. Therefore, it is recommended to use products with salicylic acid in lower concentrations at first and observe the skin's reaction. In case of uncertainty or persistent skin problems, a skin care expert should be consulted.

Benefits of panthenol (provitamin B5) for the skin:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a frequently used ingredient in skin care products. It has various positive effects on the skin. Here are some of the main benefits of panthenol:

• Moisturising: panthenol has a moisturising effect and can help to keep the skin hydrated. It has the ability to bind water, which is particularly important for soothing dry skin and keeping it supple.
• Soothing effect: Panthenol has calming properties that can help soothe skin irritation and redness. It is particularly effective for sensitive or irritated skin, even after sun exposure.
• Promotes skin regeneration: Panthenol can promote the regeneration of skin cells. It supports the healing of skin lesions, cuts or minor burns and helps to strengthen the skin barrier.
• Anti-inflammatory effect: Panthenol also has anti-inflammatory properties. This makes it a suitable ingredient for products used for inflammatory skin conditions such as redness or mild irritation.
• Supporting skin elasticity: Panthenol can improve skin elasticity, which helps the skin to look firmer and more youthful.
• Treatment of skin problems: Panthenol is often used for various skin problems such as eczema, dermatitis and nappy rash. It helps to alleviate symptoms and promote the healing process.
• Supporting wound healing: Panthenol can support wound healing by promoting the formation of new tissue and moisturising the skin.

Panthenol is used in various skin care products such as creams, lotions, ointments and serums. It is generally well tolerated and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. If you have specific skin problems or are unsure how your skin type reacts to panthenol, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist or skincare expert.

The key ingredients for radiant skin

• Snail secretion: hydrated, radiant and wrinkle-free skin
• Honey extract: radiant and fresh skin
• Niacinamide: soothing barrier + nourishes and moisturises + slow/well aging + brightening and correcting
• Glycerin: nourishes and moisturises + soothes the barrier
• Hyaluronic acid: nourishes and moisturises
• Panthenol: soothing barrier + nourishes and moisturises + slow/well aging
• Aloe vera and cucumber: soothing

The benefits of snail secretion for the skin:

Snail mucin, also known as snail secretion or snail mucin extract, has gained popularity in recent years as an ingredient in skincare products. Here are some of the potential benefits of snail mucin on the skin:

• Moisturising: snail mucin contains hyaluronic acid, glycoproteins and glycolic acid, which can help to moisturise the skin. This is particularly beneficial for dry skin.
• Skin regeneration: Snail slime contains proteins, enzymes and vitamins that can promote the regeneration of skin cells. This can help to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Anti-ageing effects: By promoting collagen and elastin production, snail mucin can help reduce the signs of ageing. Skin can look firmer and more youthful.
• Anti-inflammatory: The anti-inflammatory properties of snail mucin can help reduce redness and skin irritation. It is particularly effective for inflammatory skin conditions such as acne

• Healing of skin injuries: Snail slime contains natural growth factors that can promote wound healing. This is particularly useful for minor skin injuries, cuts or burns.

• Skin soothing: Due to its composition, snail slime can have soothing properties that help to calm irritated or sensitive skin.

• Skin brightening: Snail slime contains allantoin, which can help reduce hyperpigmentation and fade dark spots. This results in a more even skin tone.

It is recommended to do a patch test first when using products with snail mucin to ensure no allergic reactions occur. If you have specific skin concerns or are unsure, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist or skincare expert.

Benefits of honey extract for the skin:

Honey extract is valued in skin care for its many positive properties. Here are some of the possible effects of honey extract on the skin:

• Moisturising: Honey extract is an excellent moisturiser. It can help to moisturise the skin and protect it from drying out.
• Antibacterial properties: Honey, especially manuka honey, has natural antibacterial properties. These can help to fight bacteria on the skin and thus reduce blemishes and acne.
• Antioxidant effect: Honey is rich in antioxidants that can fight free radicals. Free radicals can contribute to premature skin ageing and the antioxidant properties of honey can help prevent this.
• Soothing and anti-inflammatory effects: Honey extract has soothing properties that can relieve redness and skin irritation. This makes it particularly suitable for people with sensitive or irritated skin.
• Skin brightening: The use of honey extract can help to reduce dark spots and hyperpigmentation. This leads to a more even skin tone.
• Wound healing: Honey has traditional wound healing properties. The extract can promote the regeneration of skin cells and support the healing of cuts, scrapes and minor injuries.
• Exfoliation: Honey contains natural alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) which can help to remove dead skin cells and exfoliate the skin. This leads to a smoother skin texture.
• Improving skin elasticity: The use of honey extract can help to improve skin elasticity and therefore reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

It is important to note that the exact effect of honey extract depends on the type of honey and other ingredients in a product. Honey is found in various skincare products such as face masks, creams and serums. It is recommended to test skin tolerance, especially if you are allergic to honey or other ingredients in a product. If you are unsure or have certain skin problems, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist or skincare expert.

Benefits of niacinamide for the skin:

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, is a versatile skincare ingredient that can have various positive effects on the skin:

• Moisturising: niacinamide has a moisturising effect and can help protect the skin from drying out. It supports the skin barrier by retaining water in the skin.
• Improving the skin barrier: Niacinamide helps to strengthen the skin barrier by promoting the formation of lipids. An intact skin barrier is crucial for healthy skin.
• Anti-ageing effects: Niacinamide can promote the production of collagen and elastin, two proteins responsible for skin firmness and elasticity. This can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
• Skin brightening: Niacinamide can help reduce hyperpigmentation and fade the appearance of dark spots, sun spots and melasma. It inhibits the transfer of melanin into skin cells.
• Anti-inflammatory effect: Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to alleviate redness and inflammation on the skin. It is therefore particularly suitable for people with sensitive skin or skin problems such as rosacea.
• Regulating sebum production: Niacinamide can regulate sebum production, which is particularly beneficial for people with oily or acne-prone skin. It can help to reduce clogged pores.
• Minimising pore size: By regulating sebum production and improving skin texture, niacinamide can help minimise the size of pores.
• Support in the treatment of acne: Due to its anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties, niacinamide can help treat acne and reduce the appearance of pimples.

Niacinamide is found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams and face masks. It is generally well tolerated and suitable for different skin types. However, people with specific skin problems should consult a dermatologist before using niacinamide products.

Benefits of hyaluronic acid for the skin:

Hyaluronic acid is a popular skincare ingredient known for its moisturising properties and its ability to improve the appearance of the skin. Here are some of the main effects of hyaluronic acid on the skin:

• Intense moisturisation: Hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturiser. It can bind large amounts of water, which helps to intensively moisturise the skin. This is particularly important for soothing dry skin and keeping it supple.
• Improving skin elasticity: By increasing hydration, hyaluronic acid can help to improve skin elasticity. Skin looks plumper and more youthful.
• Reduction of fine lines and wrinkles: Hyaluronic acid can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by locking moisture into the skin, making it appear smoother.
• Skin soothing: Hyaluronic acid has soothing properties that can help relieve skin irritation. This makes it particularly suitable for people with sensitive skin.
• Regulation of sebum production: Although hyaluronic acid is mainly known for its moisturising properties, it can also help to regulate sebum production. This is particularly beneficial for people with oily skin.
• Accelerating wound healing: Hyaluronic acid can promote wound healing by supporting the regeneration of skin cells. This is useful for small cuts, scrapes or skin irritations.
• Antioxidant effect: Some forms of hyaluronic acid have antioxidant properties that can help fight free radicals. Free radicals can accelerate skin ageing.
• Pore refinement: By moisturising the skin and improving its elasticity, hyaluronic acid can help to refine the appearance of pores.

Hyaluronic acid is used in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams and masks. It is generally well tolerated and suitable for different skin types. As hyaluronic acid can occur in different molecular weights, it penetrates the skin to different depths. Depending on the desired effect and skin type, products with different types of hyaluronic acid can be selected.

Benefits of aloe vera for the skin:

Aloe vera is a popular ingredient in skincare and is often used for its soothing and moisturising properties. Here are the potential effects of these ingredients on the skin:

• Moisturising: aloe vera contains a high source of water and can help to intensely hydrate the skin.
• Soothing effect: Aloe vera has anti-inflammatory properties and can help soothe redness and skin irritation. This makes it particularly useful for sunburn or sensitive skin.
• Wound healing: Aloe vera can promote the regeneration of skin cells and support wound healing. It is often used for small cuts, scrapes and minor burns.
• Anti-ageing: Due to its moisturising and antioxidant properties, aloe vera can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Acne treatment: Aloe vera can also help in the treatment of acne. Its anti-inflammatory properties can help reduce redness and its moisturising properties can help prevent the skin from drying out.

Many skincare products combine aloe vera and cucumber to harness the moisturising and soothing benefits of both ingredients. It is important to note that individual skin reaction to these ingredients can vary and it is recommended to test new products on a small area of skin first.

The most important ingredients for smooth skin

• Rice water: refines the pores and ensures even skin tone
• Tranexamic acid: soothes the barrier + brightening and correcting
• Glycolic acid: slow/well aging + brightening correcting
• Glycerin: nourishes and moisturises + soothes the barrier
• Niacinamide: soothing barrier + nourishes and moisturises + slow/well aging + brightening and correcting
• Panthenol: nourishes and moisturises + soothes the barrier

The benefits of rice water for the skin:

Rice water, which is left over after rice has been cooked or soaked, is often used as a natural skin care product. Here are some of the potential effects of rice water on the skin:

• Moisturising: rice water contains proteins and amino acids that can help moisturise the skin and keep it supple.
• Skin soothing: Rice water has soothing properties that can help soothe skin irritations. It can be particularly useful for sensitive or irritated skin.
• Brightening effects: Some studies suggest that rice water may have antioxidant properties that could help reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
• Antioxidant effects: Rice water contains antioxidants that can fight free radicals. This can help protect the skin from premature ageing.

• Skin firming: The starches contained in rice water can help to tighten the skin and give it a firm, youthful appearance.

• Exfoliation: Rice water can have a mild exfoliating effect, removing dead skin cells and improving skin texture.

• Regulating sebum production: Some sources suggest that rice water can help regulate sebum production, which could be beneficial for people with oily skin.

If you have specific skin problems or are unsure, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist.

Benefits of tranexamic acid for the skin:

Tranexamic acid is an active ingredient used in skin care for its potential effects on hyperpigmentation and inflammation. Here are some of the possible effects of tranexamic acid on the skin:

• Inhibition of melanin production: Tranexamic acid can inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. This makes it a promising ingredient for treating hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
• Skin Lightening: Due to the inhibition of melanin production, tranexamic acid can help clear skin tone and improve the appearance of dark spots, sunspots, and melasma.
• Reducing Inflammation: Tranexamic acid has anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce redness and skin irritation. This can be particularly useful for inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea or acne.
• Refining skin texture: By inhibiting melanin production and reducing inflammation, tranexamic acid can help improve skin structure and refine texture.
• Anti-aging effects: By reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation and improving skin texture, tranexamic acid can help rejuvenate the overall appearance of the skin and reduce signs of premature aging.

It is important to note that the effects of tranexamic acid depend on the concentration in a product and the individual skin reaction. When using products containing tranexamic acid, it is recommended to start with lower concentrations to test skin tolerance.

It is also important to use appropriate sun protection while using products with active ingredients such as tranexamic acid, as skin may be more sensitive to UV rays.

The most important ingredients for stressed skin

• Ginseng extract: stimulates blood circulation and thus promotes skin cell generation
• Hyaluronic acid: nourishes and moisturizes
• Niacinamide: soothing barrier + nourishes and moisturizes + slow/well aging + brightening and correcting
• Glycerin: nourishes and moisturizes + soothes the barrier
• Panthenol: nourishes and moisturizes + soothes the barrier
• Peptides: soothes the barrier + nourishes and moisturizes + slow/well aging + brightening and correcting

The benefits of ginseng extract for the skin:

Ginseng extract is valued in skin care for its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and revitalizing properties. Here are some of the possible effects of ginseng extract on the skin:

• Antioxidant effect: Ginseng is rich in antioxidants that can help neutralize free radicals. Free radicals are molecules that can damage skin cells and contribute to premature aging.
• Stimulation of collagen production: Ginseng can promote the production of collagen, a structural protein responsible for skin strength and elasticity. This can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
• Anti-inflammatory properties: Ginseng has anti-inflammatory properties that can help relieve redness and skin irritation. This makes it particularly useful for sensitive or inflamed skin.
• Revitalizing and Toning: Ginseng is often referred to as an "adaptogen," meaning it can help revitalize skin and give it a fresh look. It can also help tone and tighten the skin.

• Moisturizing: Ginseng extract can help moisturize the skin, which is especially important for soothing dry skin and maintaining its suppleness.
• Skin lightening: Some sources suggest that ginseng may help reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, which may result in a more even skin tone.
• Improving skin texture: By promoting collagen production and revitalizing the skin, ginseng can help improve skin texture and make it appear smoother.
• Protection from Environmental Damage: Ginseng can protect skin from the harmful effects of environmental stressors, including UV rays and pollution.
  Ginseng extract is used in a variety of skin care products such as creams, serums and masks.

It is important to note that individual skin reaction to products containing ginseng may vary, and it is recommended to patch test first to rule out possible allergic reactions. If you have specific skin problems or are unsure, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist or skin care expert.

Benefits of peptides for skin:

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that serve as the building blocks of proteins. In skin care, they are valued for their diverse benefits and role in supporting various skin functions. Here are some of the possible effects of peptides on the skin:

• Stimulating collagen production: Peptides can stimulate collagen production in the skin. Collagen is a protein that is responsible for the skin's strength and elasticity. Increasing collagen production can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Skin Firming: Peptides can help tighten and firm the skin. This is particularly important for maintaining skin elasticity and preventing skin laxity.
• Moisture binding: Some peptides have the ability to bind moisture. This helps to moisturize the skin and protect it from drying out.
• Anti-inflammatory properties: Certain peptides exhibit anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce redness and skin irritation. This is particularly useful for sensitive or inflamed skin.
• Skin Brightening: Peptides can help reduce hyperpigmentation and improve the appearance of dark spots or sunspots.
• Antioxidant effect: Some peptides act as antioxidants that can neutralize free radicals. This helps protect the skin from premature aging and environmental damage.
• Improving Skin Texture: Peptides can improve skin texture, smooth texture and refine the appearance of pores.
• Wound healing: Certain peptides can promote wound healing by supporting the regeneration of skin cells.
• Improving the skin barrier: Peptides can help strengthen the skin barrier, which is important for protecting the skin from external aggressions.

Peptides are often used in high-quality skin care products such as serums, creams and masks. It is important to note that the effects of peptides depend on the type of peptide and the formulation of the product. As with any new skin care regimen, patch testing should be performed prior to application to the entire face to rule out possible allergic reactions. If you have specific skin problems or are unsure, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist or skin care expert.